AN EPIC RIDE IN SWITZERLAND

By Gerhard Czerner

Photos by Martin Bissig

An unfathomable 27 billion tons of ice make up the Aletsch Glacier, the Alps’ largest ice flow. The Stoneman Glaciara consists of 127 kilometers (79 miles) of spectacular trails and 4,700 sweat-inducing meters (15,419 feet) of elevation gain. Both are in Switzerland, and combined, they are part of a breathtaking mountain bike tour for which riders are even awarded a trophy upon completion.

Sweat trickled down my forehead and into my ear. I tried to keep my pedaling a more or less steady rhythm. The bumpy logging road that Caroline and I were cycling up to reach Fiescheralp has become noticeably steeper. I took a quick look at my cogs and was relieved to see I still had one gear left. I was breathing so hard I couldn’t even talk. My only focus was to gear down, breathe quickly, pedal slowly and keep moving towards the next hairpin. I snuck a glance over my shoulder and saw the valley far below. Caroline was right behind me. It was our first time in Valais. Though we’ve never been here, enthusiastic stories and copious research had given us an idea of how magnificent the view must be from the top of the gigantic Aletsch Glacier. Since breakfast, we had been wondering over and over, will it look as impressive in real life? We kept pedaling, filled with anticipation.

I’d gotten to know the founder of Stoneman Trails, Roland Stauder, many years ago on the original Stoneman Tour in the Dolomites. Our paths had since crossed countless times. His name was synonymous with outstanding tours packed with extraordinary experiences. There were already five different tours bearing the Stoneman logo. When he told me about his project in Switzerland, the Stoneman Glaciara, I knew immediately that this was a trail I had to do! His stories about breathtaking views and technical trails in Upper Valais captivated me. Caroline had also ridden the amazing tour in the Dolomites and fully trusted Roland’s ability to put together an unforgettable tour. A quick internet search and our curiosity was piqued. So, filled with anticipation, we headed off to Bellwald in the southern Swiss canton of Valais.

With its car-free village center and its sun-blackened wooden houses, the village was delightful.

We picked up our starter pack for the Stoneman Trail at the issuing office, located in the hotel. The most important part of the big surprise pack was definitely the punch card. It needed to be punched at six different checkpoints so that we could be awarded the much-desired Stoneman trophy. Because we had no wish to just rush our way through the countryside but wanted to enjoy the impressions, we decided to do the tour over three days. This means we would be getting the bronze trophy. Those who do the tour in two days got a silver trophy. As for the gold trophy, it’s awarded to the fittest riders, those who do the tour in a single day.

After breakfast, we took our time pedaling along the well-marked bicycle trail towards Fiesch. This was where the long ascent to Fiescheralp turned off. With an elevation gain of 1200 meters, we slowly made our way upwards. The higher the logging road wound its way up, the more amazing the view. Bathed in sweat, we biked past the Fiescheralp mountain station with its characteristic hustle and bustle. A few vertical meters further on, we were met by a cold, damp breeze when we entered the tunnel, which went through the mountain to the alpine hut Gletscherstube, located on the shores of the Märjelensee reservoir. We enjoyed a break on the patio in front of the rustic hut, which was located in a fascinating landscape formed by glaciers.

While there, we couldn’t pass up a culinary delight and Swiss cultural staple, a nuss-stängeli. These traditional hazelnut cookies were perfect dunked in an espresso. A Rivella, a Swiss herbal soft drink, quenched our thirst. There was a short trail to a viewing platform overlooking the Aletsch Glacier. Even if it was out of our way, we still would’ve decided to check it out, fortified with our delicious snack. After all, that’s why we’re here! The glacier was just a few meters below us, a never-ending, malevolent and deeply furrowed highway made of ice and snow. We could see as far as Concordia Place at the Jungfraujoch, a glacial saddle connecting several smaller ice flows to form the Alps’ longest ice highway. The thickness of the ice had been measured as being an unbelievable 900 meters (2950 feet). The 22.7-kilometer-long (14-mile) Aletsch Glacier contained enough water to provide the entire population of Switzerland with 1 liter of drinking water per person, per day, for 4,057 years.

“It’s even more impressive than in photos,” I enthusiastically commented. Back on our bikes, we enjoyed the trail, which was riddled with granite slabs, and soon wound its way among huge boulders. Pure joy! The view opened out onto the deeply cut valley, carved out of the landscape by the Fiescher Glacier over thousands of years. It was worth a longer photo stop. After this, we found ourselves on a descent requiring our full concentration. It was surprisingly challenging and looped its way back towards Fiescheralp. The vertically positioned rock slabs—put in place to divert water run-off and protect the paths from erosion—required extreme caution to avoid getting a flat. A few very narrow hairpins with steps demanded very careful navigation if we didn’t want to get off our bikes. The trail was pure technical delight, but it was also very tiring and, now and then, somewhat tricky. We had one more opportunity to revel in an incredible panorama on the high trail to Bettmeralp, our overnight destination. The view looked far out over the Rhone Valley, all the way to the world-famous Matterhorn.

THE END OF DAY ONE

Before we reached the hotel, one more highlight awaited us—the Märjela lookout. We had our cards punched here and enjoyed one of the best views of the glacier. We intentionally left this stretch for the evening to avoid the crowds that are usually there on nice days. A short stretch of having to push our bikes and we reached the lookout, now almost devoid of people. Filled with awe, we looked over the ice behemoth in the dimming evening light. The sun was just about to disappear behind the steep mountain slopes. Our timing was perfect. This time around, the obligatory photo session went on for a long time before we made our way back down the fun section of trail to Bettmeralp. First, we had to maneuver our bikes over a few bumpy, rock-strewn sections, but then we were treated to one of the best flowy meadow trails ever. Only the fading light forced us to slow down. It wasn’t until late in the evening that we reached the car-free vacation destination, located on a plateau at an elevation of 1,948 meters (6,391 feet) and overlooked a lake. It was time for a quick shower and then off to the restaurant.

There were lots of Valais specialties on the menu. One meal stood out because of its name, thought it does not sound especially appetizing, the gommer cholera. Always one to try something new, I decided to order this vegetarian meal. It’s best described as a savory vegetable pastry with pears and cheese. It was also filled with leeks, onions and potatoes. It tasted much better than the name implied. I was very happy with my choice. Feeling satiated, we soon called it a day and went to bed. “The number of impressions in a single day was hard to believe,” I said, summing up the day, and before we knew it, we were fast asleep.

The next day started with a very exciting descent of 1,200 meters (3,937 feet). Behind the Riederalp, the trail took us past rustic alpine huts and pastures before quickly dipping down into the forest. Here we unexpectedly encountered a few highly technical tidbits in the form of steep, rocky passages. And in between, the rooty forest floor demanded some quick maneuvering. The trail was clearly marked throughout with the Stoneman logo, so we could keep our momentum going, even at the winding junctions in the forest. “This was so gnarly,” we joyously called out to each other when we reached the valley floor in Mörel.

Once we crossed the valley, it was time to start the long climb to the tour’s highest point, the Breithorn Pass, at 2,451 meters (8,041 feet). We’d already taken off our jackets by the time we’d reached the last town of Grengiols. The road had become noticeably steeper. The asphalt had ended, and everyone had fallen into a meditative rhythm for the long climb. At the next hairpin, we filled up our water reserves one final time. Our altimeter displayed nearly 2,000 meters (6,562 feet) when we crossed the tree line. The majestic view gave us the motivation we needed to carry on. The clouds swirled around the lush green peaks. The incline on the old army road up there was much nicer, and we actually enjoyed our final elevation gain to the pass. High five! “That went better than expected,” Caroline declared, happily. We were so thrilled, we had almost forgotten to punch our cards.

After enjoying a magnificent view over lunch, it was time for the descent. We felt pretty exhausted, so we didn’t mind that this trail wasn’t that challenging. The narrow gravel roads allowed us to enjoy our surroundings and the feel of the wind in our faces. The idyllic landscape, with its lively creeks and verdant meadows, was a balm for the soul. After a short climb, we reached the town of Binn. It was late afternoon, and the first thing we noticed was the arched stone bridge. Spanning the rushing Binna River, it was built in 1564. The Binn Valley was considered a treasure trove for crystals. Mineral collectors, referred to as rockhounds, had found over 270 different types of minerals. At one time, looking for and selling minerals was a welcome way to make some extra money. Now there were just a few people who earned their living this way. The idyllic village, popular among visitors, was noticeably empty come evening. Here, too, a regional specialty was on the menu—raclette. We were served a big slab of hot, steaming raclette cheese, garnished with some vegetables. It’s eaten over boiled potatoes, and the sound of the rushing stream was the perfect accompaniment to our meal. We couldn’t imagine a tastier end to our day than our meal in the restaurant, Zur Brücke.

On our final day, we’d be doing the shortest stretch, so we were not in a big rush in the morning. The first part went down to an asphalt street until we turned onto the old road connecting Binn and Ausserbinn, just before a tunnel. Until the new tunnel was built in 1,965, Binn Valley was cut off from the outside world in the winter. Avalanches and rockslides often tumbled down the Twingi Gorge, blocking the only navigable road. Now, the old road was the perfect way for bikers and hikers to experience the spectacular surroundings. Way down below, at the bottom of the gorge, the Binna wound down the mountain. We biked through many small tunnels. We couldn’t help but notice that the metal railing along the edge was destroyed by rockfall.

Once past Ausserbinn, the easy trail continued on to Ernen. In the village center, the wooden houses, so typical to the region, were close together. The village square was one of the most beautiful in Switzerland, and we were thrilled that the historic buildings were in such good shape. The leisurely trail continued upstream to Reckingen, the region’s oldest mountain village, until a sign indicated the other side of the valley. Here, the Stoneman Glaciara took us through many centuries-old mountain villages, where time seemed to stand still. It was still early in the day, so we decided to take our time, stopping often to marvel at the bucolic countryside and the well-preserved buildings, feeling as though we had stepped back in time. Some of the wooden homes were on stilts and had been used to store grain. The thick wooden posts supporting the buildings were intersected by a round slab of slate, effectively preventing mice from getting into the stored grain. “It’s so simple,” I said, amazed by the practical ingenuity. When we reached Niederwald, we had to work hard again. This was the start of our last climb back to our starting point in Bellwald.

After three very spectacular days of majestic landscapes, sometimes challenging trails, a lot of cultural experiences right off the trail and so many local specialties, we were happy to accept our bronze-stone trophy. “There’s no way I’d want to do that in one day,” I told Caroline, laughing, when we got our trophies. We agreed—in developing the Stoneman Glaciara, Roland had created an extremely spectacular and interesting mountain bike experience, worth every drop of sweat. And, the bronze-stone trophy would always remind us of these magnificent days.

Website: www.stoneman-glaciara.com/en/

Tour information: 127 kilometers (79 miles), 4,700 meters (15,420 feet) altitude gain

Starter packs: Can be obtained at your hotel if you’re staying with one of the 22 accommodation partners; external guests can pick these up at one of the official issuing offices. All partners can be found on the website.

Planning your tour: GPS tracking on registration. The website has suggestions on how to best split up the route. Do the tour counterclockwise! The route map was included in the starter pack. Great signage.

Six checkpoints to stamp your card: Bellwald, Märjela, Mossfluh, Breithorn, Binn, Reckingen

Season: June to November, depending on weather conditions.

Requirements: In good physical shape and able to do technical trails. Some trails are tricky.

Official information on trail conditions:

—3% rooty/rocky stretches

—3% cobblestone, coarse asphalt

—10% unpaved trails

—17% single trail

—37% paved trails

—30% asphalt

Restaurant tip: Zur Brücke in Binn,www.zurbruecke-binn.ch